Krabi

Dreams of Thailand

Towering limestone outcrops rise as sheer

cliffs along the shore, break the surface of the ocean to from rugged islands, and loom seemingly out of nowhere amid dense greenery. As unexpected as they are beautiful, these karat formations define the natural grander that is Krabi.

Tempering this grandeur of limestone is the softer beauty of white sandy beaches, quiet coves, idyllic island hideaways, casuarinas and palms, and the lushness of some of Thailand's last remaining lowland rainforests. Krabi is rightly famous for its beaches, yet it also captures the imagination in many more ways than being just another tropical resort.

Set in the heart of the Andaman coast region, some 800 kilometres south of Bangkok, Krabi town, the provincial capital, successfully preserves an identity all its own. Neat, clean and compact, it stands guard over the estuary of the Krabi river and in so doing draws a certain distinction from the waterfront. Otherwise, it lays no claim to tourist sights and appears blithely indifferent to any who should want them.

It is nonetheless pleasurable to stroll around absorbing the local ambience and, in the evening, dine well and cheaply at the night market's food stalls.

The beaches are, of course, what most obviously beckon the visitors, and they do not disappoint. Each location is distinct in its scenery, and at the loveliest spots rust-hued cliffs add a dramatic touch.

Ao Nang's long strand of uncluttered sand gives a sence of spaciousness, as well as scope for tourism facilities. In contrast, neighbouring Nopparat Thara is quieter and more secluded, hence its popularity with local picnickers.

Topping both spots for stunning scenery is Laem Phra Nang. Jutting out into a clear emerald sea, this headland is cut off from the main coastline by a ridge of high peaks and can be approached only by boat. From the water, it appears in a breathtaking vista of cliffs rising sheer to frame scalloped strands of white sand backed by dense coconut groves tucked in between the rockfaces.

Enveloping the three sides of the irregularly shaped headland are the beaches of Phra Nang, west Rai Lay and easst Rai Lay. All boast a rare picturesque quality, although only the first two are suitable for swimming as east Rai Lay's narrower stretch of sand borders on mangrove flats. It is nonetheless still an attractive spot and gives fine views of the sunrise. Offshore, small islands, some with their own pretty beaches, dot the sea.

If natural beauty were not sufficient, Laem Phra Nang holds delights other than just sandy shores. Most famously, Princess Cave, situated at the southern end of Phra Nang beach, hides a shrine to the spirit of a mythical princess. Personal challenges are also to be found at Laem Phra Nang, and the high cliffs beside east Rai Lay lend themselves perfectly to rock climbing.

That may not appeal to all, and there is less muscle-straining, adrenalin- pumping exercise in climbing the trail that leads up the side of the wooded cliff adjacent to east Rai Lay. To reward the effort, there is a vantage point that gives a seagull's-eye view of the headland and surrounding sea. Further enchantment is found by taking a second trail down to Princess Lagoon, a lovely pool set within the rock and hidden amidst dense vegetation.

Beyond these coastal beaches, a voyage over the horizon leads to the large islands of Phi Phi and, to the south, Ko Lanta, both enthralling beach destinations in their own right.

Surprisingly, Krabi's delights are not exhausted by its beaches. The 75-million-year-old fossils of the Shell Cemetery, Su San Hoi: the charming wooded valley guarded by high limestone cliffs that contains Tiger Cave Monastery; and the rainforests of the hinterland, characterized by limestone outcrops, waterfalls, pools and streams-all are possessed of their own wonder.

Thank you for coming to the article Dreams of Thailand Krabi / John Hoskin, Mark Standen & Dave Lloyd / Bangkok city library